Need Water Pump/Impeller Changed. Help Please.

[Adrian]

It's that time again, I need to get the yearly maintenance done... Do you know anyone who does this on site? Someone who can come to my driveway and fix me up? If not, Is there a place besides C&O around Sumner county?

BTW, Mercury EFI 175

[Buccaneer]

Marine Electric Service in Hendersonville, in the warehouse behind Jollie Ollie's pizza off New Shackle Island Rd. He specializes in Mercury motors. (615) 824-3205
Marine Electric Service
112 Mid Town Ct, Ste 305
Hendersonville, TN 37075

[crappiechaser]

Marine Electric is good. Don't know if he will come to you.

[gboyce]

He is no longer behind Jolly Ollies. I believe he is working out of the tracker store now. He moved sometime last year I think

[thehick176]

Its not close to Sumner county but Bobby at Lakeshore Marine is good. He is by Cooks rec on Priest.

[Adrian]

Here's the deal, the Boat is Winterized, and If I hook it to the Truck just to go have the Impeller changed, it's going to want to go in the Water. You know what I mean? I don't think we're done with the Cold weather just yet.

Thanks Ya'll

[Tennoutdrsman]

David walker at Walkers Bait and tackle..He needs the work so stop by and talk to him..

[tkwalker]

Originally Posted by Adrian

Here's the deal, the Boat is Winterized, and If I hook it to the Truck just to go have the Impeller changed, it's going to want to go in the Water. You know what I mean? I don't think we're done with the Cold weather just yet.

Thanks Ya'll

Adrian, as you know I have been around these things for a long time, and I don't understand a winterized outboard, Man this is not an inboard where you have water freezing issues ... ...

Have a question for you ... Do you winterize your Weed eater ? Chain saw ? Lawn mower? etc ... If so you are more diligent than most ... Back in the day when I got started with Big Block outboards in the 70's .. Winterizing was to pull the plugs and spray wd-40 into the cylinders (fogging). Or pump the Bulb with so much fuel it choked the motor down ... .as well as remove the fuel line and run the carbs empty ... Basically all of the above is Wives tales ... unless you are going to store a motor ... and In that case I would remove every drop of fuel in it ... This is okay if a motor is going into storage ...

Then when I really got serious about my present hobby I realized that you still have fuel trapped in your fuel line to the tank via the check valve ... Also Gasoline being organic will evaporate in your fuel lines in the motor ... But if it sets up over 8 months or so will develop a residual scale along the walls of the tubing ... The first shot of fresh fuel will wash this debris into the carb bowl/Injectors ...

My suggestion, old or new motors ... First... stay away from Ethanol fuel ... it is alcohol ... IT ABSORBS WATER ! ... There are stations out there that is ethanol free One for instance is your local Farmers COOP ...

Secondly in the winter always keep your fuel tanks full... Weather conditions fluctuate that condensation will develop on surfaces of tanks that are exposed with out fuel and then you are dripping water into your exposed fuel ...

Thirdly fill your fuel tank/tanks full and add stabilizer, run your motor to circulate your fuel throughout the complete system ... IE. Fuel lines, external/internal Carbs/injectors... etc ... Do not disconnect the fuel line or drain the fuel system .. Keep it totally enclosed just like you would do your car if you let it set for 3 or 4 months ...

I know you keep your batteries up during the off season .. So what I do is every 30 days or so is just go out and touch the start button ... all you want to do is move the pistons a half stroke .. This keeps the rings from sticking .. I do the same thing to my Vintage racing motors... either pull the starter rope one time or move the flywheel ... Just move the rings ...

This way you can start the motor anytime you want ... Once a month every three months etc ... Your covered ... But if you can start it every 6 weeks or so on the ears and let it run for 10 min's ...You definitely won't have any problems in the Spring

This is what I have done with my 225 HP Merc as well as my 50 HP 4 stroke Yama none has ever failed me ... Adrian , I don't know of any one that will make a service call unless they are desperate and then I would beware , or if they are reparable it will be big bucks !! ... I haven't checked your particular Impellor $$ But I would estimate between $25/$35 ... Also service the lower unit fluids while your at it ... (Merc Hi Performance) If I wasn't totally snowed under with business plus it is hard for me to handle the heavy lower unit anymore with one arm ... I would charge you around $125... Just a heads up ... and hopes this helps ... <'TK><

[Heiny57]

X 2. I change pump every other year or three and use additives.

[Adrian]

Thanks. & TK, Now you tell me
I just had it Winterized this year because I wasn't going to touch it all Winter. Brought all the Batteries into the garage and left it in the driveway. I normally do what you're saying, however with this new boat with a 39 gallon gas tank I was afraid to fill it up all the way with 3 batteries in the back. I'm sure running it all year is a better plan but I didn't want to think about it. Hopefully I didn't screw Up...

[aero320]

I have my 225 Optimax serviced at Clark Marine in Franklin. Have always been treated fairly by them and they are certified Merc mechanics. Nowdays, replacing an engine is an expensive proposition.

[tkwalker]

Originally Posted by aero320

I have my 225 Optimax serviced at Clark Marine in Franklin. Have always been treated fairly by them and they are certified Merc mechanics. Nowdays, replacing an engine is an expensive proposition.

I had a gentleman contact me today about a 1985 ... 35 HP Merc that he said wasn't running right ... hard to start, wouldn't stay running at idle etc. I asked him a number of questions about what it was doing, fuel etc ... Then I asked has he had it been worked on recently ... He said Clark rebuilt the carb and not much more last summer , the Bill was over $300 and it did not run any better than it did when he took it there ... ??

I am not going to question anybody's dealer or shop ... There is always multiple reasons for problems ... In this instance it may be compression, water leak around a head gasket , etc ... and of coarse a fuel issue ... But $300 is a little extreme ... The shop rate now in the main stream Dealerships is between $75 and $100 per hour now and the carb kit around $40... A carb can be removed, rebuilt and replaced and tank tested in less than a hour .. There are certified mechanics, but not all have a good work ethic, skills, experience or the desire to satisfy a customer ... "In another words, If it doesn't satisfy me, It won't satisfy You" ... <'TK><