I'm an idiot!

[JKTrevecca]

Happy New Year to all of you!

My father in law gave me cash for Christmas and since I've been wanting to renovate the boat for a while now the money be thrown into the boat. I tore into it today. Here is an album of photos documenting my tear-down. It's been fun so far! If any of you have any pointers or suggestions please share!

https://goo.gl/photos/7KKadFCFsfcLS78RA

The boat is a 1981 model and was 100% stock before I started this project. The only part of the floor that was absolutely rotted is the back right corner below where the cranking battery and old oil tank from the prior Evinrude sat. I think the acid and oil + the water destroyed that portion of the floor. The foam under the floor wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. only that back 24-30 inches on the right side of the boat and 12-20 inches on the left side had any water log issues and only the bottom 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch of foam was full of water. The last photos show where I stopped removing foam because it was all dry at that point.

My plan is to incorporate the bait tank into/under the front deck raising it up about 6-8 inches and extending the front deck back to the console to add storage around and in front of the bait tank.

I'd like to make it where the bait tank is removable in case I sell the boat but I need to ponder how best to do that for a while. Any idea's are welcome!

Also, I plan to use the area under the floor between the foam as rod storage with a hatch to access it.

The idea is to keep that back of the boat as open as possible for fish fighting but I would like to incorporate fold down jump seats and a built in gas tank vs. the two portable ones I use now.

Any good tips on where to get the best deal on exterior grade plywood + marine vinyl flooring? Or... I've thought about pre-cutting all of my plywood and taking to a spray in bed-liner place to have them coat all sides then install it. Either vinyl or spray in will let me pressure wash or hose out the mess after catching slimy bait.

I'll update more later. Here is the link to the photos from today.

https://goo.gl/photos/7KKadFCFsfcLS78RA

[aero320]

I replaced the floor in a Glastron Tri-hull many years ago. It is a big job, but you have already completed the worst part.

Use Marine plywood, not just exterior. Marine plywood has better plys with no voids. Just a little more expensive but well worth it.

Use your original parts as templates. Once the parts are cut, coat them with fiberglass resin. Put fiberglass cloth at least on the top.

You can order stainless steel flathead self-tapping screws from Graingers that will make screwing the floor panels to the frames much easier.

I like the idea of creating a lowered compartment for your bait tank. Are you sure that will be your last tank? The SBT 2's are a lot better tanks.

If you run anything under the floor, assume you will need to replace it, so incorporate ports into your design.

[notorious]

Nashville Plywood off of Church going south from 65 loop on the right before you get to Baptist Hospital has marine grade plywood, be ready to pay the price. I suggest Aluminum for weight saving, strength and add aluminum angle for additional bracing and build factors. Even bad welding is better than hundreds of screws. The transom is the most critical element and it should be the best, thickest with the most layer marine plywood you can buy.150 a sheet or more pending thickness. Saturate the wood in thinned resin until it will not accept anymore, focus on the edges as this should take a number of coats before it is covered in fiberglass layers. Each screw hole should receive as many coats to seal the wood. Use the best product you can get...no corner should be taken. Carry the raw hull and have it rhino coated, choose the large finish over the Line-X thin and smooth stuff and pay for the color you want. Make sure you scuff the surface yourself as those guys just hit it and spray. Clean the surfaces with MEK or Lacquer Thinner before you take it to them. Find guys local so you can watch and make sure it is done well. Expect 5-600 for custom color and application. The reason for heavy coating is it will hide imperfections and provide better sound insulation and allow simple re-screwing of items when you decide to change things around with little reveal. Replace all the wiring with the best you can get. Solder and shrink wrap each connection with die-electric grease on everything. The only connectors should be waterproof design to a new buss box and switches to eliminate electrical problems. When you run the wire always pull another heavy gauge full length just in case later down the road you add something. If the unit does not have PVC for the wire put it in to house all the wire, don't zip tie it until it exits the loom, wrap individual circuits separately in-case you have to pull another or replace. There should be no rush and spring should be your target. The Yami should receive a carb rebuild and Boyesen Reeds with a planed reed box, water pump and lower unit rebuild. The exterior paint is a breeze, scuff, sand, prime and shoot with single stage and your good. Have a sign shop make new graphics.

[JKTrevecca]

Thank you both for the engaged replies and advice. Aero... I understand and was planning on the resin but not the glass cloth.. can you explain why the cloth? Is it for added strength? Here is my 3rd layout drawing to scale. I like this layout the most but having the weight of the bait tank in the rear when full makes her sit low. The splash well is constantly draining on a choppy day. But... this boat was made for back trolling so it has a huge splash well. The tank in the rear plan would give me added flexibility to swap to a sb2 later if desired too. Decisions decisions...

Sent from my KFSOWI using Tapatalk

[JKTrevecca]

uploadfromtaptalk1451709290051.jpg

Sent from my KFSOWI using Tapatalk

[Reel Tune]

I have no useful input, but it looks like your getting some solid advice. Please keep us updated on your build, I would enjoy watching the progress.

[Buccaneer]

Bass Boat Central.com, Boat Restoration forum has great information, tips whatever you need - http://www.bbcboards.net/forumdisplay.php?f=118

[white95v6]

Haha yea I agree. You posted about boat repair/upgrades in a fishing sub section. This website has a section just for equipment. Lol

[aero320]

Originally Posted by JKTrevecca

Thank you both for the engaged replies and advice. Aero... I understand and was planning on the resin but not the glass cloth.. can you explain why the cloth? Is it for added strength? Here is my 3rd layout drawing to scale. I like this layout the most but having the weight of the bait tank in the rear when full makes her sit low. The splash well is constantly draining on a choppy day. But... this boat was made for back trolling so it has a huge splash well. The tank in the rear plan would give me added flexibility to swap to a sb2 later if desired too. Decisions decisions...

Sent from my KFSOWI using Tapatalk

You want to encapsulate the plywood as much as possible. Resin will help but resin and cloth will be much better. If water reaches the inner plywood core, it may rot.

Transoms are thicker than 1 1/2". Some guys at one of the forums place a layer of thinner material between the two 3/4" layers of marine plywood. Measure the existing transom an adjust accordingly. I replaced the transom in the old Glastron and it was a BIG job.

The Rhino lining is a good idea. They do that on duck boats. It does add weight. Smoker Craft is supposed to be a good hull. It you get discouraged by cost, go price new boats!

[JKTrevecca]

I made a complete list of everything I need to complete the project the "ideal" way and came up with about $950. Since I'm always about 10% over budget I figure 1100 bucks to do everything I want. This includes installing a 3 bank on-board charger and adding a battery. I'd like to keep it under 650 but don't want to cut any corners. I may need to do this slowly to do it right. I may run wires for the onboard charger but wait on adding that and the extra battery for a couple months.

I think I've decided on Nautolex Marine Vinyl flooring. This is the stuff that comes on the new Alumacrafts/Trackers. It looks like carpet but it's vinyl. I will be able to cover all of the horizontal surfaces for $220 with the glue and shipping included. Line-X is about $700 so that's not gonna happen on this build. I think I'll use a deck-restore product from lowes/home depot for the non-wood vertical surfaces.

Anyway... I added a picture of my mock-build up of the front end. This is VERY rough but gives me a good idea of the space and height. I am 99% set on the bait tank being up front. I'll put it into the boat in a semi-permanent fashion in case I want to upgrade tanks or sell the boat.

This is a fishing forum and my thread is about my boat but I know a few of you so it's fun for me to share. Feel free to move this to another forum heading if it's a problem TK. Not trying to hi-jack the fishing section at all.

-- Jason

[commdd]

dont worry a minute about posting in this section, very interesting! keep us updated. a much better thread than a stringer of fish that were "released".

[notorious]

JK how high do you plan on your front deck? Small V hulls with a deck are very tippy and a few swells just right and your all wet and forget big water... where V's excel. Make the front deck as low as possible if nothing else. I want you to have the best boat you can have. The on-board charger is nice, however wire laden. Electronic interference will play hell on high end electronics therefor run as many wires on the opposite side of the boat as possible and plenty of shielding. Run trolling circuits by themselves. I re-wire every boat I get new or used.

[Heiny57]

Great thread, will be watching.

[aero320]

Originally Posted by notorious

JK how high do you plan on your front deck? Small V hulls with a deck are very tippy and a few swells just right and your all wet and forget big water... where V's excel. Make the front deck as low as possible if nothing else. I want you to have the best boat you can have. The on-board charger is nice, however wire laden. Electronic interference will play hell on high end electronics therefor run as many wires on the opposite side of the boat as possible and plenty of shielding. Run trolling circuits by themselves. I re-wire every boat I get new or used.

I agree with Notorious on the front deck height.

[JKTrevecca]

Worked from about 4:30 - 7. Got the back two pieces of decking cut. I used the old piece to make a template for the hole for the bait tank. Photos updated to the original link showing tank in the hole cut out of old decking.

The deck height will be higher but much lower than I was originally planning. With the tank recessed into the floor, the deck will be about 10 inches below the top of the ride rails. I've stood on the very top rails before and didn't feel un-stable so I may be crazy but I'm not worried about it.

Gotta run for now. Have a good evening!