Quote:
Originally Posted by tkwalker
Something just doesn't sound right..... Texas-Rig's method is the norm " and I quote:
"If you want to run less than 3/4 throttle just go ahead and punch the throttle as to plane out. After you've planed out Then you throttle back and you should stay on plane without your nose being too high."
Trim buttons and Tachs play a very important part in correct boat response ..My procedure is you tuck the motor down to the transom, then go full open throttle ... This makes the bow to want to actually plow the water at top end...
Then start tapping the trim button up, the bow will rise, watch your tach increase in RPM'S. If you raise it to high the prop will blow out, then tap the down button until the prop bites and this should bring your RPM'S back into the appropriate power curve for your rigs setup.
To run at a slower speed back your throttle off but you will need to start at the same time trimming down by just tapping the button. (do everything in slow increments until you get use to your boat) If it is trimmed to high at a reduced speed it will start to porpoise . So trim down until you take the porpoise motion out of it.
There are number of variables here, Driver and passenger weight, Haven't learned all of the ends and outs of your trim system. The trim system itself... make sure when you are trimmed down that the motor is tucked in and parallel with the transom,(Transoms are usually 16 to 20 degrees and so should the motor, check this on dry land.
In my dealings with boats over many years I have found very few rigs need whale tails especially if you have the HP. But for sure weight should not ever be needed to correct this type of problem.But Jeff's Idea isn't bad LOL..
Flatline, a question, It sounds like maybe your slowing down to a point that the boat is falling off plane... But I really can't understand a 45 deg, angle, trimmed in (down) unless you have your RPM'S to low where you are plowing.
Here is my assumption: you have Hyd. trim, so there is no tilt pin. If it does remove it.
A three blade prop is not causing your problem, four blades are used for applications usually for High HP top end performance they reduce starboard lift do to High torque
Both Merv (Aglesssone) and I use trim tabs in conjunction with our trim system of our motors do to the size and payload of our guide boats, your bass boat should not require these. Look above this post to Sticky: "Memories" and look at pic's of how these were applied.
Flatline, There are some great suggestions listed in this thread. By the way I was thinking the same about the fat bottom gals LOL ... I think what was mentioned earlier in the thread you may need to learn and get use to your new boat, now not to say that some of the fore-mentioned ideas may need to be applied ... Try this method and give us more info, RPM'S, Speed, Trim position etc... We are here to help... TK
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You are probably right, I just need to just work with it a little more. I know one thing for sure... and that it doesn't take much trim before it starts blowing out as you put it. I looked at how the motor is mounted and you used the middle bolt holes on the motor. I wonder if the motor is mounted a little too high ? Would 2" make enough of a difference ? She'll jump into a plain with just myself in a instant and it doesn't take very much trim either to adjust for maximum cruise. It that sense, you could say that its well balanced ??? I guess I expected the motor to trim out more to achieve that perfect ride. The boat comes with a trim gauge and it barely moves between all the way down and just before it porpoises.
I remember older fiberglass boats friends would have were able to trim out and shoot rooster tails while cruising across the lake.
In any case, I might be letting off the throttle too quickly and then trying to correct my speed ending up plowing.
I just thought with a 18' boat the nose would stay down a little more then it does..