Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis C.
Regardless which unit you get Jamie, the first thing you do is turn off the fish ID's. They are a joke and completely unreliable. Hummingbird made them popular and the only reason Lowrance has them are old Hummingbird owners complained that Lowrance didn't have them.
The arches are the better method but learn to "read" the arches. Just because there is a big arch and a smaller one doesn't mean they are not equal. How long and where a fish passes under the transducer is a big factor in how it is read. If a 5lb bass is swimming though the outer edge it may be a smaller or same size arch as a 2lb that is stationary directly under the middle of the transducer as you pass over. Heaven forbid a bluegill swims with you under the transducer it will leave you thinking there is the mother of all rockfish under your boat.
Also learn about the "Dead Zone." The cone does not go all the way to the bottom. It is thinnest directly under the transducer and thicker the further away. Fish can actually be there on the bottom but never show on your screen. This is another reason to not use a wide angle over deep water because that will create an even bigger blind spot.
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The fish Id symbol is one reason why I want to upgrade my fishfinder. The one I currently have is a portable one that my stepfather gave to me that was probably made in the late 80's/early 90's. The fish id is all it has and is not reliable. The "fish" could be anything from actual fish, weeds, wood, etc. The only time I can be confident it is fish is when I see a row of fish stacked on top of each other. 95% of the time, its crappie.
Also thanks, for making me aware of the Dead Zone. Didn't even know about that. Do you know of any sites with illustrations of this dead zone?