Fly fisherman - Casting question

[Pinwheeled]

I just purchased a fly rod about a month ago and it's been a learning experience. I've caught a few fish on it so far but I keep running into the same problem. When just practicing in my yard or when casting a single fly, I don't have much trouble. However, most of the fishing I've done so far is with a nymph and an indicator. For the life of me, I cannot figure how to get rid of tailing loops. It seems like I'm constantly boogering up my leader or snapping off my indicator. Is there any way to help avoid them? It's really put a damper on my fishing since I'm untangling stuff more than I actually have the fly in the water.

I'm using a 9' 5wt with a 6x leader and 2lb fluorocarbon for my tippet. Any advice would be appreciated.


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[ChrisNClark]

How far are you casting?

[fairweatherfisherman]

I spent some time with a casting instructor that was worth every penny.

[Adrian]

I don't know if you have cable TV or Dish but channel 700 on cable has a TON of fly fishing programs. Surely there is some good info on there. Of course Youtube & Practice :) Good Luck!

[commdd]

look up the orvis casting videos and the lefty kreh videos on utube. trailing loop can be many things. work on the fundamentals on the videos and the problem should take care of itself. also a tapered leader might help and use a bit heavier leader until you casting is more consistent. hope some of this helps


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDJJ6W23gHw

[bfish]

2nd spending time with an instructor. No reason to learn bad habits to have to unlearn them later.

My guess would be you're not pausing long enough on the back cast and/or pushing the rod forward too fast/too soon. The forward part of the cast is way less powerful than say spinning or baitcasting.

[SalmonDaze]

2nd spending time with an instructor. No reason to learn bad habits to have to unlearn them later.

My guess would be you're not pausing long enough on the back cast and/or pushing the rod forward too fast/too soon. The forward part of the cast is way less powerful than say spinning or baitcasting.

^^^^^
This

[jaystaler88]

Snapping flies means your aren't pausing long enough. If it helps, there isn't anything wrong with watching your back cast to know when the rod is "loaded", then you bring it forward.

The second thing that stood out to me is the fact that you are casting an idicator and a nymph. The trick to this is to take it REALLY easy, because with all that junk on the line it's very easy to get a wind knot or a tangle. Limit yourself to just one or two false casts before dropping it on the water. This decreases the amount of opportunity your line has to get messed up in the air.

The best thing I think you can do is to learn the roll cast really well. You have much greater line control, it's easy, quick, and suits a clunky indicator rig really well. When I was fishing double nymph rigs with multiple split shot, rolling it is the only option. You have better line control and once you get it down, you can drop your fly in a tight area.


Check out you tube videos to learn the roll cast and then I would recommend a free casting clinic. Orvis and other fly shops do them for free, usually so they can get people to buy gear, but it's not a bad way to learn a thing or two. An investment in instructional guide will pay for itself 20 times over in Knowledge

[Pinwheeled]

Thanks all for the suggestions. I've been watching the Orvis videos on their website a lot but it sounds like a little time with an instructor would help a bunch.


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[Travis C.]

When just practicing in my yard or when casting a single fly, I don't have much trouble. However, most of the fishing I've done so far is with a nymph and an indicator.

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These are two different casting principals. Using a single fly you are casting on a level plane from back cast to forward stroke. Using an indicator or adding weight to the leader you have to open your casting up a bit. The nice tight loops are not what you are trying to achieve with an indicator because the energy transfer won't happen the same. You are basically lobbing the indicator out but its not that simple.

A few things that may help.

1) Slow down (you are never really going as slow as you think you are)

2) Watch your back cast. See where it goes and how it lays out.

3) Limit your casting distance. If you want to cast way over there then move closer somehow. Change your angle. I am guessing if you are having trouble with wind knots then the mending on a 60-70ft cast will not be sufficient to achieve a dead drift.

As far as wind knots: if you can't untangle in 2 mins cut it at re tie. save you some headache and stress.

Roll cast is a good suggestion as well.

[brax0789]

Pinwheeled you may have a couple of issues going on here. There are several pieces of information that you aren't giving that may be critical. What is the action of your rod? What is the length of your leader? Why are you adding tippet? (most leaders today are tapered leaders and the last 1.5 to 2 foot of material IS the tippet. Adding tippet gets the entire leader "out of formula" and causes it to hinge. What is the size of the fly? A 6x leader is small and would be appropriate for a very small fly (22-26 depending on design and whether wet or dry). What type and size is your indicator? Fly casting is a balancing act that also factors in wind and body mechanics. Every situation alters the balance and you have to make minor adjustments. Being able to lay out a good cast in your yard won't be the same on the water. Why? because of the friction and weight of the water itself. I'm glad to see people take up fly casting. To me it is a kind of fishing art form. If I can help you further, I live in Hendersonville and I've been doing this for 50 years. Just shoot me a message.

[notorious]

Fly-lines are variable, I use a WF-F/Shooting for local lakes and ponds, however switch to VP-F/I for a trip to the Smokies. Try to shorten your leader a touch, slow your back cast delay, load your rod and try a Double Haul technique to lay your cast.